Rules of the Ghanaian Road

Taxi drivers can do anything they want. (At any time.)

Motorcycles are exempt from traffic signals. (And lane lines.)

Helmet? No helmet? Your choice.

Beware of lorry drivers wearing helmets!

It is OK to drive on the left side of the road. (Even though Ghana is a right-hand-drive country.)

It is perfectly acceptable to make an illegal move so long as another vehicle runs interference for you.

If they don’t move immediately, it’s OK to honk. (If they do move immediately, it’s still OK to honk.)

It is OK to drive on the sidewalk. (Especially when the roadway is blocked.)

Flat tire? Why pull over? The lane is your garage.

Chaos is desirable. (It slows traffic and compels turn taking.)

It is unacceptable to lose your patience. (At least, very few people seem to.)

Stop signs? Who needs stop signs!

There is no maximum stacking height atop tro-tros.

Working traffic lights: optional.

There are four legal options for entering a jammed lane:

• The “I’m too nice/timid/inexperienced.” Put on your turn signal. Wait (less time than you’d expect). A taxi driver will flash brights at you. Move ahead.

• The “I’ll try to be nice about it, but you really must let me in.” Put on your turn signal. Wave your hand. Make a motion indicating your intention. Move ahead. (No need to wait for acknowledgement.)

• The “Tantrum.” Move to completely snarl traffic in a different lane. Wait briefly for drivers in your destination lane to accommodate you. (They will, because they empathize with the drivers in the lane youre blocking.) Move ahead. (No need to apologize.)

• The “I don’t care what you think.” Put the corner of your bumper between two cars. Push.

—Matt